 In the imaginations of many people raised in Bangalore, every place worth eating at or even being seen at has to be within a four-kilometre radius from the Mahatma Gandhi statue. Either that or it has to smack of reverse snobbery: “I drink at Dewar’s because it’s cheap.” Venturing anywhere beyond these settings would mean the changing of daily itineraries and other such complications which your standard-issue Bangalorean would much rather do without.
But then a restaurant like Aroy will spring up in JP Nagar 3rd Phase, eight kilometres from that statue, and entire lives have to be reconfigured. This new restaurant, which offers Thai and samplings of Chinese and Burmese street food cuisine, makes it worth your while to brave a gruelling drive across town for a meal.
We started with the banana blossom cakes and Thai pickled cucumbers (Rs 165) which, although fried, were light on the tongue and allowed the delicate taste of the shredded banana flower to emerge. The pandan chicken (Rs 195) effortlessly married the sweet flavour of the screw pine leaves with the smoky flavour of the grilled meat. The dish was good enough to win over a chicken-hating friend. We paused at the salad section, and the Namtok lamb (Rs 165) aptly rewarded our attentions with its citrus tang.
For the main course, we tried the Chinese cabbage, shitake and burnt garlic noodles (Rs 175), accompanied by lamb and bitter gourd with black bean (Rs 250), and were thrilled with the combination. The fresh flavours of shitake and pok choy were intact in the noodles, while the initial sourness of the lamb dish gave way to a deliciously bitter and meaty after-taste. We also tried the pineapple fried rice with raisin, beads of water chestnut and nuts (Rs 175), accompanied by Burmese prawn and okra curry (Rs 395). Our worries that the Hawaiian influence would derail the meal were unfounded – the kick of tamarind in the curry reined in the sweetness of the pineapple and raisins.
We wrapped up this culinary circus with a Thai dessert staple – water chestnut rubies in coconut and jasmine syrup and shaved ice (Rs 125), a dish that upheld the quality of freshness that had distinguished the rest of the meal.
Be an adventurous Bangalorean, abandon the itinerary and indulge yourself. It’s cheaper than a flight ticket to Bangkok or Naypyidaw. Joshua Muyiwa
74, 15th Main, JP Nagar 3rd Phase (4093-9311). Daily noon-3.30pm, 7-11pm. All major cards. Meal for two Rs 900. |
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